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Mitigation services

Radon mitigation systems, engineered for your home

Radon mitigation systems are engineered for each house. No two systems are the same, because no two houses are. Ours reduce radon by creating negative pressure underneath the home that reaches every area of the basement, and we have seen reductions of up to 95 percent doing it.

C-NRPP Certified Professionals Substantial Liability & Pollution Insurance Guaranteed Below 75 Bq/m3 or ALARA Post-Install Verification Test
Already have a result?

You have the number. We are the fix.

Most people reach us after a test comes back over Health Canada's 200 Bq/m3, or after a neighbour's did. You do not need to wade through the science or wait on another round of testing to get moving. You need it fixed, verified, and off your mind, and that is the entire job.

You already tested

Bring us the number. We design the system to your result and your home, and the post-install test proves where you finished.

Your neighbour tested

Same soil and the same era of construction, but radon varies house to house. A high result next door is a real reason to act, not a guarantee your home is also high. Our guarantee is an absolute number rather than a percentage reduction, so it still means something without a "before" reading.

You are buying or selling

A radon result on a conditional does not have to derail the deal. We handle the fix and give you the documentation the transaction needs, and we run short-term tests for transactions on a timeline.

How it works

How does a radon mitigation system work?

Most residential radon systems use active soil depressurization. A suction pipe connects to the space beneath the foundation and a continuously running fan draws radon-bearing soil gas into the pipe and exhausts it safely outdoors. Instead of your house pulling soil gas up through cracks, the system collects it first.

We build systems by conducting extensive diagnostic measurements. Those measurements tell us where to place the suction point and which fan to use, so the system treats every area under your home rather than the corner nearest the pipe. You also get a detailed report of those measurements, both for transparency and so you have the documentation available if you sell.

1. Diagnostics

Pressure field extension measurements under the slab. This is the step that decides whether one suction point is enough or the home needs more, and which fan will actually move the air.

2. Design and install

Suction point cored or connected, pipe routed to the exterior, fan mounted, and the vent terminated properly. A typical residential system goes in within a day.

3. Verification

A post-install test with a calibrated device, and the reading handed to you. That reading is what proves the system did what we said it would.

The two preferred methods

Sump pit or sub-slab: which system does my home need?

It depends on how your home was built and what is under the concrete. A sump pit system uses the sump basin you already have as the suction point. A sub-slab system cores a five inch hole through the slab and removes the reachable material beneath it. Combined with knowing what to look for, both are very effective.

 Sump pit systemSub-slab system
Suction pointThe existing sump basinA new cored hole through the basement floor
Works best whenThe sump connects to open, continuous drainage tile around or beneath the foundationThere is permeable material under the slab, or no usable sump
Sump still usableYes, sealed with an airtight lid and accessYes, unchanged
Decided byDiagnostic measurements, not by which is easier to install

Health Canada describes active sub-slab depressurization as the most common radon reduction method and reports it can reduce radon by more than 80 percent in most homes. We see 90 to 97 percent on many installs. Read the full comparison on our blog.

The supporting work

What about sealing, air exchangers and crawl spaces?

These come up in every quote, and two of the three are commonly oversold. Here is what each one actually does, and where it fits alongside a mitigation system rather than instead of one.

Caulking and sealing

It is impossible to seal radon out. Case studies show levels rising again within months of sealing, because concrete has either cracked or eventually will. Sealing is still an important mitigation step: it improves the efficiency of the installed system by reducing the conditioned air that escapes through cracks, under the home, through the pipe and out the side of the house.

Air exchange (HRV / ERV)

An effective way to dilute radon by 20 to 50 percent. We recommend HRV systems as an addition to a sub-slab system for general air quality, and we do not recommend them when levels are significantly above the action limit. They are a trimming technique for levels hovering near the limit.

Crawl spaces

In an accessible crawl space, polyethylene sheeting creates a barrier between the dirt floor and the living space, and a perforated pipe draws on the area beneath the sheet and vents out through the side of the house. Whether yours needs it is decided by a test, never assumed.

Before you mitigate

Should I test before mitigating?

Radon mitigation is recommended when a long-term test of 91 days or more shows a level above Health Canada's 200 Bq/m3 action limit. Levels fluctuate significantly minute to minute, so we encourage everyone to make an informed mitigation decision based on long-term readings rather than a snapshot.

That said, you do not have to wait for a number to act. Plenty of homeowners mitigate on a neighbour's result or simply to have the protection in place, and because our guarantee is an absolute number rather than a percentage reduction, it still means something with no "before" reading at all. And remember: your neighbour might have low radon levels and you may not. Same soil, same era of construction, different house.

See our testing options

The process

From radon number to a safe home in four steps

1

You want it fixed

Your test came back high, a neighbour's did, or a sale depends on it. Call us with your number, or without one.

2

Site inspection

A paid, educational walkthrough of your home with a certified professional. You get your options explained and a firm written price, and the fee is credited back in full if you proceed.

3

One-day install

A typical residential system goes in within a day, clean and tidy, with the vent routed properly to the exterior.

4

Verified below the limit

We run a post-install test and hand you the reading that proves where your home landed.

What homeowners say

Reviews from real customers

These are unedited Google reviews from homeowners we have worked with. Nothing here is written by us.

Professional from start to finish. The team clearly knows their business, communicated consistently, and provided transparent, detailed quoting with no surprises. The installation was completed with clean, precise workmanship, and the entire experience reflected a high level of expertise and integrity. Have already referred to others and highly recommend.

Glen BergenGoogle review

Phil and Dennis did a great job on our radon mitigation system installation. We really appreciated their professionalism and attention to detail throughout the job. Phil was a delight to work with right from the start, always having time for our questions and going the extra mile to ensure the system was as quiet and unobtrusive as possible. We couldn't be happier with the process or the end result, drastically reduced radon levels and a mitigation system so quiet we hardly notice its there.

Trudi CollinsGoogle review

We have been so pleased with our decision to have contracted Phil and his team to complete our Radon Mitigation. Right from the start it was apparent that we were dealing with a knowledgeable professional that had all of the attributes of the ideal contractor. Phil provided a description of every step of the process necessary, answered all questions prior, during and after the job. On installation day he and his crew treated our home as if it was their own and made sure the job was done effectively and neatly. Our readings improved within hours of completion.

Dino GuerraGoogle review
Common questions

Radon mitigation FAQ

What is the difference between a sump pit and a sub-slab system?

Both are active soil depressurization: a fan draws soil gas out from under the foundation and vents it outdoors. The difference is where the suction pipe connects. A sump pit system uses the existing sump basin, which works well when the sump connects to open, continuous drainage tile. A sub-slab system cores a new hole through the basement floor and removes reachable material beneath it. The diagnostics decide which one your home needs.

Does sealing cracks fix radon?

No. It is impossible to seal radon out, and case studies show levels rising again within a few months of sealing alone. Concrete has either cracked already or eventually will. Sealing is still an important step in a mitigation, because it stops conditioned air being pulled from the house down through the cracks and out the vent, which makes the installed system more efficient. It is a supporting measure, not the fix.

Will an HRV or ERV solve my radon problem?

An air exchanger dilutes radon by roughly 20 to 50 percent, which is useful trimming when a level is hovering near the action limit. It is not the answer when levels are significantly above it. We recommend HRV systems as an addition to a sub-slab system for general air quality, not as a replacement for one.

What happens with a crawl space?

In an accessible crawl space we lay polyethylene sheeting to create a barrier between the dirt floor and the living space, then a perforated pipe draws on the area beneath the sheet and vents out through the side of the house. Whether a crawl space needs treating at all is decided by a test rather than assumed, and where it does it is a second phase of work.

How much does radon mitigation cost?

A typical residential radon mitigation system in this area runs about $3,200 to $4,000. The number depends on the house rather than a price list: how the foundation is built, how well air moves under the slab, where the pipe can be routed and what fan the diagnostics call for. The site inspection produces a firm written price for your specific home before any work is booked.

Why do you charge for a site inspection?

Because it is a real assessment by a C-NRPP certified professional rather than a sales visit. You get a paid, educational walkthrough of your home, an explanation of your options, and a firm written price for the work. If you go ahead with the mitigation, the inspection fee is credited back in full against the job, so it ends up costing you nothing.

Do I need to test before you can fix it?

No. Most people come to us with a result already in hand and that is the most direct route, but you do not have to wait for one. Plenty of homeowners mitigate because a neighbour tested high, or simply because they want the protection in place. Because our guarantee is an absolute number rather than a percentage reduction, it still means something without a "before" reading: the post-install test shows exactly where your home has landed.

How long does the installation take?

A typical residential system is installed in a single day. More complex homes, a stone or rubble foundation, multiple slab areas or a crawl space that needs its own treatment, can run longer, and the site inspection tells you which one yours is before you commit.

Will the system need maintenance?

Almost none, and that is deliberate. The system is designed so you can forget about it: there is nothing to service, nothing to empty and nothing to schedule. The fan is the only component with a service life, which is why we specify a good quality one rather than the cheapest that meets spec. If one ever does fail it is a straightforward replacement. We suggest retesting every couple of years or after major renovations, simply because that is good practice.

How much will a system actually reduce my radon level?

Health Canada reports that active sub-slab depressurization reduces radon by more than 80 percent in most homes. In practice we see reductions of 90 to 97 percent on many installs. Rather than quote a percentage, we guarantee an absolute number: below 75 Bq/m3, well under the 200 Bq/m3 at which Health Canada recommends action, or as low as reasonably achievable (ALARA) where a building restriction physically prevents reaching 75.

Get started

Book your site inspection

Tell us about your home and your radon result, and we will book the walkthrough: a paid, educational site inspection with a C-NRPP certified professional, your options explained, and a firm written price. The fee is credited back in full if you proceed. Prefer to talk it through? Call (519) 807-1995.

C-NRPP certified walkthrough Firm written price No sales pressure

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